ON THE VIBRANT stretch of Hillcrest between 10th and Vermont, the Cohn Restaurant Group recently opened a culinary collective, including Bo-beau kitchen + caché and Tacos Libertad. The main restaurant—Bo-beau kitchen—serves French bistro and comfort food set in an eclectic, bohemian-chic space. Tacos Libertad, located next door, is a for-charity, gourmet taqueria that fronts caché, an intimate speakeasy.
The menu at Bo-beau kitchen + caché has some similarities to its other locations, like the escargot, shell-on and piled up in a warm bath of butter, garlic and parsley. These delicate bites pair perfectly with chilled sparkling wine or the Green Beast, a crisp cocktail infused with herbaceous absinthe, cucumber and lime. The warm frisée and smoked pear salad, unique to the Hillcrest location, is a savory mound of bitter greens, 90-day aged blue cheese and slices of Bosc pear that have been smoked with applewood. Candied walnuts sprinkled about the dish offer moments of sweetness against the intense smokiness of the fruit and cheese.
For a main course, you must order the moules with bacon lardons. A sizable mound of clattering mussels arrives at the table in an enamel pot with bits of whole grain mustard and tarragon clinging to the jet black shells. The mussels are tender; the bacon is crisp; and the tangy, ocean-infused broth below is pure gold. Sopping is required with slices of French bread or the accompanying rosemary-scented fries. Meanwhile, Bo-beau’s scallops are soft, supple and perched upon a luscious bed of pancetta risotto. Did we mention they’re also seared in brown butter? Thin batons of green apple offer tart contrast while chopped hazelnuts provide warm, golden crunch.