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Drink It In

Ann Wycoff | November 26, 2018 | Feature Features

Downtown's latest addition, Route 29, offers a glimpse of California wine country a little closer to home.
An 18-ounce ribeye pairs nicely with a cabernet from the extensive wine list.

It’s a tall order to fill when you name your restaurant after that famed two-lane highway that meanders past the vineyards, chateaus and rarefied eateries in Napa. For me, a trip along Route 29 conjures up thoughts of impossible-to-get reservations, nine-course tasting menus, stretch limos, burly cabernets, bucolic landscapes and Michelin stars—not exactly what I equate with the rip-roaring Gaslamp. But with seasoned vets Alessandro Minutella and Vincenzo Loverso (Greystone Prime Steakhouse & Seafood, Osetra Seafood & Steaks and Osteria Panevino) behind the wheel, Route 29 caught my attention as an outlier.

Walking inside is a pleasant escape; its open kitchen design and rustic-modern aesthetic gives off a wine country vibe. Sure, there’s reclaimed wood, exposed beams wrapped with faux vines, rope rigging and hanging barn doors in this casual bistro, but an upmarket, downtown-chic twist reveals itself in the tufted caramel-toned leather booths, white Carrara marble bar and private dining library nook with pearl-colored leather furniture and a pressed-gold tin ceiling.

Sitting in the main room, along the back banquette cleverly designed to look like vintage steamer luggage, I take in the abundance of eye candy: concrete chandelier medallions hang above the wine racks, blue-and-white tiles nod to the old-world wineries of Italy. The brushed aluminum bar facade and steel trellises usher in the modern, paying homage to the industrial elements of winemaking. But the pièce de résistance is the entryway collage of vintage blueprints of winemaking machinery like presses, openers and barrels on floor-to-ceiling wooden panels.

We start with a delish Golden Gate cocktail—a smooth, dry-shake sipper of organic Azuñia Tequila, passion fruit, carrot, lemon, agave, bitters and egg whites, elegantly presented in a gold coupe—and then turn our attention to the New Californian menu. When original chef Daniel Bear hit the road, his sous-chef, Jase DiNardo, took the pole position of the exhibition kitchen. Nothing says rustic like Mason jars spreads with crunchy bread, and while a dated trend, their burrata and organic heirloom tomatoes with housemade fig marmalade, balsamic glaze and candied pecans are a gratifying grilled ciabatta topping. Our wine-savvy server pours a crisp Ramón Bilbao Albariño 2017, the acidity of which performs well with the flavors of the caprese.


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