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Surf's Up!

Casey Hatfield-Chiotti | April 30, 2018 | Feature Features National

One of San Diego's most sophisticated beachfront restaurants gets a fresh new look—and a witty menu makeover.
A decadent banana ice cream and peanut butter cookie sandwich

On a Monday night in March, JRDN at the Tower23 Hotel in Pacific Beach was humming. Diners on the patio drank chili mango margaritas and dined on maki filled with spicy scallop and topped with wagyu beef carpaccio as the sky behind Crystal Pier turned violet. Indoor tables started to fill with a diverse clientele that included families, couples and girlfriends catching up over cocktails. It was a scene that has played out countless times since JRDN opened in 2005. I’ve been visiting since then, and it’s still one of the only places in San Diego where you can enjoy a freshly muddled mint mojito and raw oysters while also feeling the ocean breeze. But a dozen years in, it was ready for a refresh.

This winter, the restaurant closed for two months for an overhaul that has infused it with new energy. Gone are the white tablecloths in the section that used to be reserved for fine dining. A sunset-friendly glass wall that opens to bring the outside in has been added to the main dining room and an aqua-colored art installation on one wall features a geometric print and Pacific beach imagery. One of the major improvements greets diners as they enter the door: A pristine sushi kitchen enclosed in rose-colored glass has doubled the size of the raw bar and made it possible to serve sushi to the entire restaurant. Longtime patrons may remember that when JRDN opened, it had a small sushi kitchen, but it serviced only part of the dining room, often resulting in confusion and disappointment for guests. For this reason, it eventually morphed into a raw bar. Now, guests can order creative sushi rolls and sashimi to their heart’s content.

Chef David Warner, a graduate of The Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale’s School of Culinary Arts, worked for JRDN for eight years before leaving to start his own venture. He was hired back by Tower23’s parent company, Eat.Drink.Sleep, a year and a half ago as their corporate executive chef, and after revamping the group’s floundering Decoy Dockside restaurant, he returned to the helm of the restaurant at Tower23 just as the improvements were taking place.


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